By Pete Ramsey

Michigan is already well known for its scenic Lake Michigan beaches and the beautiful lighthouses. Just inland from the northern shoreline you will find a scenic area of a different kind. The rolling countryside is dotted with an amazing array of lakes, river, and wildlife areas, easily accessed by automobile and RV.

We parked our motorhome at the beautiful state park campground in Grand Haven’s harbor to visit friends. At their invitation, we joined them in their motorhome for a trip north into the Grand Traverse region. Along the way, we visited several of the state parks near Pentwater, Manistee, and Empire. Although we were traveling in the off season (late October), all locations we visited were open, staffed, and well maintained for our group’s 35’ motorhome. Unhooking the toad, we wandered through the area and fell in love with the beauty and also a bounty unexpected. What a treat it was for my wife Ramona and myself to visit this area for the first time and discover truly wonderful wineries and their delightful tasting rooms.

Two wineries in particular are worth mentioning. Peninsula Cellars, a tasting room housed in a 19^th century schoolhouse, was our first stop as we ventured up highway M-37, about 7 miles north of Traverse City. Once Inside Peninsula Cellars, the bouquet of the vintner’s successful efforts in the fields greets you. We were particularly impressed with the "Old School White" sampling as well as two cherry based offerings, "Cherry Jubilee" and "Kroupa Cherry"

The Kroupa family began farming in this area, known as Old Mission in the 1850’s. Descendants David and Joan Kroupa began Peninsula cellars in 1994 and have developed a loyal following of wine aficionado's in the area.

We learned the local lake effect microclimate induces warm breezes that allow the grapes to ripen on the vine long into the autumn. This climate, aided by the well drained soils, and intense summer sun produce some fine crops, which are then expertly crafted into the elegant treats we enjoyed in the beautifully restored old schoolhouse. There is no winery tour at Peninsula Cellars, however the staff was well versed on their wines and the vintner’s efforts. The relaxed atmosphere in the tasting area allowed ample time to examine the artifacts of a bygone era as we browsed through the building. The parking area has limited room for RV parking along the east side of the lower gravel surface. Peninsula Cellars is open throughout the year with seasonal schedules, phone (213) 223-4050, website www.peninsulacellars.com

Further north along the West Side of highway M-37 we found the Chateau Grand Traverse, our second "grape discovery" for the day. This modern facility, located on the grounds alongside the vineyards has a larger parking lot, suitable for big rigs. Our host, once inside the beautiful visitor’s center and tasting room, was an affable young man named Hiro. In our many visits to wineries in he U.S. and Canada, this was our first experience with an oriental host. Hiro explained that as a young man in Japan, he developed an intense interest in wine making. After graduation from college, he had an opportunity to come to the U.S. and work in his chosen field with the Chateau Grand Traverse winery.

His tour of the vineyard, a beautiful overlook area, as well as the interior of the winery, was very historically informative and enjoyable. Hiro explained that Edward O’Keefe developed the area in 1974. O’Keefe test planted 55 acres of European Vinifera grapes. Once the test planting was deemed successful, O’Keefe sought out the highest land on the Mission Peninsula, and reshaped over a million cubic yard of soil to insure a proper southwest-facing slope for his grapes. The Chateau vineyards now consume 100 plus acres of this fertile region. When the tour was completed, we returned back to the visitors center and sampled the Chateau’s offerings

It was difficult to decide on a favorite variety, so we narrowed the field to three. The Chateau produces cherry wines with a very pleasant aroma and smooth not overly sweet taste. Our past experiences with Cherry Wine have always been one of mere tolerance, not enthusiasm. The sample’s we enjoyed here (and at the previous stop) were very pleasant indeed and worthy of our purchase. Chateau’s "Cherry Ginseng" and "Spiced Cherry" offerings now grace our wine cellar waiting a special occasion. Our other choice was the "Edelzwicker", a noble white wine of a 1998 vintage. The Chateau is open daily and their website is www.cgtwines.com.

Traveling in this region was a delight, as the roads were well maintained, smooth and adequately marked. RV’ers will find numerous parking facilities at the previously mentioned public parks as well as numerous private campgrounds. Some parks in this area are old generation facilities with smaller sites that may not support larger rigs. It would be prudent to call ahead to confirm amenities and space limitations, especially in the off season, when traveling in this area. Otherwise, take your time and enjoy the delights you will encounter. We certainly did and will return to this area for further exploration.

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